For all your paddlesports needs, we are your one stop kayak shop in Crystal River.
Learn to Lean, Edge, Brace, and avoid capsize.  You'll have a much better day on the water, when you learn the skills of kayaking.
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1420 SE US HWY 19       CRYSTAL RIVER, FL 34429       (352) 795-2255

Why Certified Instruction?

Instruction is essential for getting the most out of paddlesport. With instruction you will have more fun, gain confidence, go farther and faster with less effort. Take control of your paddling experience! Take a lesson from a certified Instructor!

With Lessons, you should feel a measurable difference in your paddling. It might be as basic as improved comfort while pulling up to the dock. It might be making rolls, surfing waves with greater reliability, or avoiding capsize when caught be a sudden wind, wake, or wave.

A practiced instructor can save you the 'pain' of learning from lots of bad experiences.

The typical paddling class atmosphere is really fun! By taking a class you meet other people who will be about your skill level, thus you will expand your network of paddling friends.

It's a simple formula: Paddlers + Instruction = Safer Paddlers = Fewer Accidents

AMERICAN CANOE ASSOCIATION CERTIFIED INSTRUCTORS

WE CAN TEACH YOU THE SKILLS.


 

"Quick Start Your Kayak" a registered ACA trademark

The ACA kayaking workshop that explains, demonstrates, and teaches persons how to safely and securely handle their kayak.  We’ll explain and demonstrate everything you’ll need:

  • Differences between boat designs and paddles. 
  • How does one get in and out of a kayak securely, safely and dry?  
  • Paddling correctly to prevent injury.
  • Staying dry on the water.
  • Boat maneuvers, including spins, turns, forward in a straight line, side paddle, and side steer.
  • Learn how to make controlled stops.
  • Paddling backwards in a straight line.
  • Avoid capsize and panic.
  • Learn the six basic strokes and more like:  Forward, Reverse, Draw, Pry, Stern Rudder, Bow Rudder and stern rudder, Side Steer, and Side Paddle.

Quick Start is the first of two parts of the Introduction to Kayaking.

Upon successful completion of this 4 hour workshop, each student will receive an ACA certificate showing you’ve learned all you need to get out on the water and have fun safely, and with great confidence to handle your kayak. 

 


 

RESCUE & RECOVERY

This is the second part of the “Introduction to Kayaking.”  This is a must class for both paddlers and kayakers alike.  What do you do if you have a mishap and suddenly find yourself in the water and out of your boat?  It’s not a matter of just swimming to shore.  Have you ever tried to swim under stress while dragging 1200 pounds of kayak full of water?  
You must be able to exit and re-enter your boat in the event of a capsize.  Re-enter your kayak efficiently, effectively, and quickly to avoid hypothermia and other hazards in the water. 
The students will learn different ways and techniques of re-entering along with the various tools necessary.  Each will learn to accomplish the task both alone and with another rescuer.  We will work with you and work with you, till you are confident in the skill. 

This is a get wet class.  Time is allotted for instruction, demonstration, practice, and critique.  PFD's will be worn at all times.  PFD's must have whistles.  Class size is limited. 

 

Who am I learning from anyway? Where have they been? What have they done?

John, Morgan, Derek, David, and Wayne at the West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium.

Morgan and David are certified American Canoe Association instructors. They've sea-kayaked much of the Pacific NW along side Orca Whales, Dolphins, and in tidal races. They're also accomplished whitewater canoeists, having negotiated many of the level 3 rivers out west. They've attended many hours of instruction, seminars, and conferences, and have had private instruction from World Famous Kayakers like Derek Hutchinson, Wayne Horodowich, and Nigel Foster. They've both attended the University of Sea Kayaking.

"Why do I need a lesson?" "I've already been kayaking before. There's nothing to it." "I'll never fall out of the boat, or get into trouble."

 

Unfortunately I hear this a lot. Less than 5% of people who purchase a kayak will take a formal lesson. Think of it as getting into a car and just driving. If it's a stick shift... How much clutch vs. gas? Why change the oil? How much pressure does one put apply to the brake to stop a certain size car moving at certain speeds. Learning how to drive makes the experience better, safer, and fun.

 

The same holds true for kayaking. Instruction takes you to a new dimension. Learn how to stop, back up, avoid hazzards. Paddle faster, further, and with less effort by applying your boat, blade and body in unison. Learn the hydrodynamics of the boat and how it moves through the water. This will let you know "how much pressure to apply on the brake".

Why ACA Instruction?

ACA instructors are individuals dedicated to promoting safe and fun paddlesports. Instructors take classes on how to teach and present the information effectively and skillfully. They refine their skills and can then pass that on to the student. They dedicate their time, invest their money, and learn what it takes to teach. All ACA instructors are taught on the same page, so when they teach, everyone is learning in a safe, fun, and experienced format.Paddlesport Education. ACA has long been a leader in the area of paddlesport education. Today, with the expanding number of individuals entering the sport at varied skill levels, the ACA’s educational programs must become broader and more efficient. The ACA will work towards each of the following:

  • Advance the recognition of safety and the skills needed for a safe experience.
  • Promote "gateway" paddling education to reach the broader public as well as mastery level programs for the paddlesport enthusiast,
  • Lead the education of the paddlesport community by going beyond lesson plans to package paddling education programs for specific groups and individuals.
Once you learn the skills, kayaking will be so much more fun, with a lot less effort." Learn to paddle smarter, not harder."

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THE TIPS OF THE PADDLE:

CRAMPS AND STRAINS

Do you start to paddle, but less than an hour into your trip you develop cramping, or your arms are getting tired?  Chances are you just need to refine your paddling technique.

How you position yourself in the boat, and how you sit will keep you comfortable and relaxed for hours.


I see so many paddlers trying to use the backrest of a kayak like lounger.  Some figure if they get a larger seat, or pad, or extra large backband this will alleviate the problem.  They expect the seat   should feel like a "Lazyboy" recliner!
"Sit up straight and stop slouching!"  Now where have you heard that before.  It's true though.  If you're leaning back against the backband you're wrong.  While paddling your back should be straight with just a slight lean forward.  It's ok to lean back when taking a break, to view the scenery, or take pictures, but keep your back straight while paddling. Your legs should be in about a 30 degree angle and slightly spread.  Bring your foot pegs back to meet your feet.  Only the pads of your feet should be on the pegs.  Your thighs should be comfortably tucked up under the thigh braces, not jammed up tight or resting on them.  You see, kayaks were designed with the paddler in mind.  Each boat was made specifically for the owner. The kayak is to be worn.  Like a comfortable pair of pants.  Not too tight, not too loose.  We can purchase boats now right off the shelf.  While price can be a factor, it shouldn't dictate which boat we purchase, because if it's uncomfortable you won't use it.  Your boat may need to be modified or padded to get that 'perfect' fit.


SPEED AND GLIDE

Does it seem like no matter how hard you paddle all your paddling buddies are leagues ahead of you and you're bringing up the rear? While some boats are designed for specifically for speed, you should be able to keep up with other boats of your same class. The paddle should be entering water softly and quietly.  A loud paddle stroke is an ineffective paddle stroke.  Each time the paddle 'splashes' it's loosing glide and proficiency. Your arms should not be doing the work, only holding the paddle out in front of you.  While a body builder could force a paddle through the water with incredible force, a petite little person could paddle longer and faster with proper technique.  The torso should be doing the work.  In other words the upper body should be moving not the arms. Try this:  With your hands on the paddle shaft approx. shoulder width apart, extend your arms out straight. Lock your elbows, and don't bend them at all while doing this. (Like a robot!). Now put the paddle into the water just to the front of you.  Twist your body around, keeping the paddle in the water and sliding the paddle to the side and back on about a 45 degree angle away from the boat.  Awkward yes, but you get the idea.  In order to accomplish this, you must twist your torso, and not pull your arms back. Another way is while moving the paddle through the water, keep the tip of your nose directly pointed at the tip of your paddle. Watch it move through the water. Follow it. Do this on both sides. With time and practice it will become second nature to twist instead of pull.

If your shoulder, elbow, or wrist aches at the end of a paddle, then something is wrong. STOP before you permanantly hurt yourself. Come by or call and we'll try to diagnose the problem. You'd be surprised how a little bit of formal instruction will take you so much further.

 

STABILITY

Often I hear, "I need a boat that's stable," or "Brand 'X' boat is too tippy for me." First let me explain: Stability is a relative term. When engineers design a boat they take into account two factors... Initial Stability and Secondary Stability. Initial stabiltiy is the boat moving through the water upright and flat. Secondary stability is putting the boat up on edge, (or on it's side, see the kayaker in the picture at the top of this page). It will come up on it's edge and one will feel it stop. You'll actually feel very comfortable there. If you don't put it on edge far enough it will settle back down, and if you go too far you'll get wet!

When first-timers are starting out, and they talk about stability, they usually mean sitting still, not moving. They want to feel secure, as if they were sitting in a chair with four legs firmly touching the ground. This would be fine if we were on the ground, except water is not solid or flat. A bicycle is a good example of stability. Two tires on the ground. Try staying still and upright. You can't. You'd fall over, but start peddling and the bike is incredibly stable. Same with a kayak. Get it moving. The paddle is a brace and balance as you glide through the water. Fight the boat trying to stay upright, jerk the paddle in the water, or pull the blade out of the water while it's flat, and you'll be needing a towel. Whether you're in the boat or not, it's going to float. The boat tips over because the paddler is using force, (or their weight), off balance and over the boat goes.

Have you ever watched ballroom dancing? Especially the Latin dances. The hips and Legs of the dancers move, but the upper body stays still and balanced as if a rod was run through their head to their belly. The same should hold true for the paddler. Leaning your body puts the boat off balance and over it will go. Edgeing a boat will make it highly maneuverable, turn in windy conditions, and counteract waves and forces that strike the side of the boat.

Imagine you have a book on top of your head. You're sitting in the canoe or kayak's seat. The boat rocks side to side. "Don't let the book fall off!" Move your hips and not your torso. Ride it out. The boat will float and ride the wave. Don't stiffen up. Let it ride! Try this with a freind holding your boat so you won't fall over. Rock the boat with just your hips. Keep that book balanced on your head! Now try leaning side to side with your upper body. See how the boat wants to fall over? Now you have balance and stability.


These are just a few tips.  To learn more and receive on the water training, call or e-mail us to set up some classes.  While anyone can get into a boat and paddle down a river, make sure your instructor is qualified to teach.  
Use only certified instructors.


Safety ~ Rescue  ~ Recovery ~ Paddling Strokes

Edging ~ Leaning ~ Bracing  ~ Rolling

Turning ~ Maneuvering ~ Stopping

Backing ~ Side Steer ~ Side Paddle

Private kayaking lessons begin at
$75 / hr for one or two paddlers.  

Group instruction begins at $40 per person, minimum four, maximum 6 persons.

  • Lessons includes an over water paddle with critique along the way.
  • Lessons are conducted in calm protected waters.  
  • Ability to swim is helpful, but not necessary.
  • Boats, PFD's, and paddles are available for an additional charge.
  • PFD's will be worn at all times, no exceptions, no excuses.
  • Bring water for hydration, a snack for continued energy.
  • Dress for the weather...  Sunscreen, hat, swim wear etc.  It gets hot.
  • Successful completion of ACA course will recieve Level Award Certificate.

AMERICAN CANOE ASSOCIATION CERTIFIED INSTRUCTORS



Customize your kayak. Sometimes all your boat needs is a little adjustments or additions to make it fit just right.  Outfitting, Modifications, and Repairs are our specialties.

Compass Basics for Kayaking

By Tom Watson
Tools of the tradeA discussion on the use of a compass from a kayaking standpoint begins with basic compass savvy and then advances to the difference between land compasses and maritime compasses. As kayakers we can find applications for each as we tour open waters and explore the country beyond distant shore. Even in an age of satellite tracking, GPS technology and other advances, having basic compass skills should be part of every paddler’s overall skills resume.
Because the earth spins on an axis, a magnetic field is created, one that flows from pole to pole. The pole at the top of the world is north; the one at the bottom is south. A thin strip of metal is attracted to that magnetic flow. Allow it to swing, float or rotate freely and one end of that metal strip will align itself with that flow causing the "needle" to point north.
There is a glitch. The very tip-top of the globe is considered the geographic North Pole, the very top of the world. Problem is the "magnetic" north - that imaginary point on the globe that is the top of the north axis - is not at the top of the globe. The earth doesn’t spin exactly vertical, it’s titled a bit. That tilt changes slightly every year causing the "magnetic" pole to shift. It actually moves around in an erratic course somewhere below the actual northernmost tip of the globe.
Pause with this info’ for a second and consider the compass.
The most basic of compass knowledge tells us that it’s a device that shows us where North is – and subsequently East, South, West and points in between -three hundred and sixty points to be exact. The compass face or dial is divided into equal segments of a full circle. The next basic division after the four key directions split each in half giving us NE, SE, SW and NW respectively clockwise around the compass. Those are broken down in half again and designated by NNE, ENE and so on around the dial. It goes one more division but these are the most commonly used directions.
A degree value, based on a full circle of 360 degrees corresponds to each of those compass points. North, of course is 360 degrees (or 0 degrees), followed by 90 degrees/East, 180 degrees/South and 270 degrees/West. Divide the amount of degrees between each quarter to give you the values of NE 45 degrees, SW (135 degrees) and so on. The degree reading is called the azimuth. An azimuth of 315 degrees is the same as NW (270 degrees for west, plus another 45 degrees for half the distance again to north.
Now back to the relationship of magnetic north and true north. A compass doesn’t point exact to the true north, it points to the magnetic north. At sea that difference is called "variation." On land one refers to that difference as "declination." In either case the term refers – in degrees - to the difference between true north and magnetic north.
This minor discrepancy wouldn’t be so bad if that difference was uniform around the world. But, no, variation/declination varies by over twenty degrees depending upon where you are taking your reading. Remember those compass points? 360 degrees/0 degrees represents north, magnetic north. At this reading, the compass arrow points to that magnetic pole. The further west you go, the further east is the magnetic pole reading from the actual true north. It’s just the opposite traveling east. There is an imaginary line that runs from western Wisconsin down through Mississippi, just west of the Florida panhandle where that difference is zero – the compass needle is aligned with both true north and the magnetic north.
Mapmakers long ago decided that all maps should be oriented to north – geographic north. Today maps and charts are printed so the top of the page is true north. One aligns the map and compass accordingly and thus navigates using those tools. That’s great if you are standing on that Wisconsin-Florida line we talked about. If you are in Minnesota, you are about five degrees west, by the time you reach parts of Alaska, you’re way into double figures.
A good map is printed with a compass "rose" that will tell you what the "declination" is for the area covered. You can then adjust your compass accordingly, literally "tuning" it in to the proper adjustment that adds or subtracts degrees. This way the compass is altered to compensate for that difference and point to the true north as shown on the map or chart. We’ll discuss applications of this later, for now, let’s get the concepts in order.
Shooting an azimithNow’s a good time to talk briefly about the different kinds of land compasses out there. Most are basically the compass dial housed in a sturdy casing. Sometimes that casing is mounted on a flat piece of clear material (plastic, acrylic) that is etched or inscribed with a rule (for measuring scale) and a direction-of-travel line or arrow. Details can be read through the base of the compass when it’s lying on the map. Some compasses have a hood that pivots upward revealing a sighting mirror on the underside. A "V" sighting notch is used to line out a distant landmark, the mirror is angled so the user can sight along this line, see the compass and read the bearing on the compass dial.
The most important task for a user of a land compass is to make sure the compass has been re-calibrated for the local declination. You can always mentally add or subtract those degrees but having that difference tuned into the compass is much handier.

Declination adjustment to magnetic northLet’s show a practical example of all this: You know that your destination is 57 degrees (a little further East than NE, right?) from your location. The declination in that area is 12 degrees. This means that the compass needle will point 12 degrees degrees further east than the geographic North Pole. In order to stay on course by following your compass needle you need to adjust that needle to compensate for those 12 degrees. The declination correction is usually a small screw on the side of the compass dial. Turning it 12 degrees east of the 360 degrees/0 degrees mark re-calibrates the compass so the needle now points to the geographic north. Now you can follow your bearing of 57 degrees without any further compensating for declination, it’s now included in your readings.
Helpful tips when plotting a course - Applications of this knowledge come into play whenever you strike out across unfamiliar territory (exploring inland from an unknown beach, for example). A compass bearing (a reading, in degrees, of a visible or known landmark) should be established right away. The shoreline is an obvious base line from which to start. If that shorelines runs due E-W, and your trek takes you inland to the north, then it’s obvious that heading south again will put you back to the ocean. A cross reference, perhaps to a tall headland or other notable land mass, will help you return to the same spot on that beach. Let’s say you decide to head NW (315 degrees) from your landing point. Your return trip will be in the opposite direction (SE, 135 degrees or 180 degrees less than NW).
When sighting a course along unfamiliar ground, you cannot always continue in a straight line. You might encounter a body of water, or impassible terrain or vegetation; you need to work your way around such obstructions without getting off course. If you deviate off course, you need to adjust your deviation so you can circle around the obstruction and get back on line. Sometimes this means picking out interim landmarks and taking interim sightings along the route until you can follow your original course. It’s always good practice to sight along your line of travel and pick out interim destinations along the way.
The best way to learn and appreciate a compass is to take a course in basic orientation. You’ll learn all aspects of a compass and gain practical field experience as well.

A Crystal River Kayak Company...

"Not Just Another Kayak Shop"

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